CTDEA On The Road: Rochester Castle visit

If you're looking to be stopped in your tracks by a Norman conquest castle, we'd suggest Rochester. It's not the biggest or even the most impressive, but it's one of the least messed with. And while it may be a shell of its former self - literally, there was a fire there in the 17th century that took out the floorboards and furnishings - it hasn't been reduced by Tudors. Or Classicised by Georgians. Or rebuilt by meddling Victorians.

In silhouette and spirit, it's as authentic a Medieval fortress as they come. From the outside, you really get a sense of the epic scale. Remember that, apart from religious buildings, most Anglo-Saxons wouldn't have seen a military building of this size built in stone. It would have been an imposing presence on the landscape for miles around.

In the centre is the Keep - rising to about 113 feet in height and apparently one of the best preserved in Europe. Back in Norman times, it would have been known as the Donjon. The reason we call it a keep is that these buildings turned into storehouses when people stopped living in these creaking old castles. But back at its peak, the illustration below gives you an idea of how the keep was lain out.

The Constable's Room is the first space you should encounter when you enter the castle through the fortified gift shop. This Constable's Room would have been the place of administration and justice for the local populace. There would have been a hanging on the wall behind the officials to keep the private apartments private. There probably might have been a few general hangings too. Such was "justice" at the time.

We found the illustrations at Rochester Castle to be really useful, because the space is a total shell. Not that that's a criticism. Next to the Coliseum and the Parthenon, it might be one of our favourite shells. If you focus your eyes on the fancier pillars in the left image, that's The Great Hall.

The Great Hall

Up to this time, a great hall in the Anglo-Saxon context would have been a wooden barn-like building. The great halls that came with castles were something else entirely. If you look at the surviving columns, you can tell that it would have been quite grand. And although large, it would have been decorated in fine tapestries, furs and furniture. The galleries overlooking the Great Hall were a useful place to have a private conversation or (when it was a real party) you could stick your musicians up there as a living speaker system. Don't think of people greedily ripping apart flanks of animal flesh either. When you were visiting your lord, etiquette was everything. Medieval table manners were actually pretty good.

If you take a look back at the first picture at the top of the page, you'll notice that three of the towers are square, but one is rounded. This is because King John successfully stormed the castle in 1215 but undermining one of the towers, which collapsed. The rounded replacement was much harder to undermine. Although, if this was the reason, you'd think the engineers would have replaced the other towers too. Though this cost would have been eye watering. Even for a king of England.

Have we got views for you

The views from the top of the castle are spectacular, both inside and out. From outside, you can see the contemporary Rochester Cathedral (having survived in much better shape!), Rochester and the Medway River and valley. You really get a sense of just how defensible the castle would have been and why it was built on such a spot. Looking back inside, you can see into the guts of the castle. Right down to the cesspit in the basement of the castle. There's a well shaft running through the centre of the castle that was restored much later on.

Key historical events at Rochester Castle

• 1066 - First wooden castle built at Rochester along the Watling Road.

• 1087 - Stone castle built by Gundulf, Bishop of Rochester. Not only a man of god, but a bloody good architect as far as imposing buildings go. See also: Tower of London.

• 1088 - First siege of Rochester Castle under Odo, Bishop of Bayeux. This was against the ever unpopular William Rufus a year after the Conqueror's death.

• 1127 - Building of the keep.

• 1215 - Second siege by King John during the Baron's War. John had to severely damage a castle he'd just had restored to take it back.

• 1220s - Henry III restores Rochester Castle, buildling the rounded tower.

• 1264 - Poor old Rochester Castle takes another hammering during the Second Baron's War. Occupational hazard of being a castle.

• 1314 - Rochester Castle becomes a prison for Queen Isabel of Scotland.

• 1367 - Repairs begin again thanks to the looming threat of a French invasion.

• 1381 - Castle takes another beating during the Peasant's revolt.

• 1540 - After centuries of visits from prominent royal types and the odd fire, Henry VIII picks the castle for the first meeting with his wife, Anne of Cleves. If the keep starts a-rockin, don't come a-knockin.

• 1610 - James I hands the castle off to Sir Anthony Weddon.

• 1884 - Rochester Castle is nought by the City of Rochester.

• c. early 2000s - Rochester Castle gift shop opens. Castle related tat fans rejoice.

We'd definitely recommend a trip to Rochester Castle. Tickets are less than £10 and there's no need to book online.. You can see the whole castle in a couple of hours (shorter if you like) and you can pop round the corner to the excellent Cooper's Arms for a delicious pint of English beer after. The beer is much better than their web design... though ours isn't great either. So we won't throw glass in stone castles.

Thanks for visiting us!

Phil & Ed's cutting edge historical research is funded by the kind donations of listeners via PayPal - and also unknowingly by their employers. Remember to subscribe to Countries That Don't Exist Anymore on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or wherever you listen. If you enjoy the show, please leave us a review. It's a huge help!